Tim Muller seconding the first ascent of Uluru Magic F7a Photo: Ian Lloyd-Jones
Development continues apace at the current ‘in vogue’ venue: Penmaenbach Quarry. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Tim Muller have added another route to the ‘Last Butt One Level’.
Uluru Magic F7a tackles the grey quartzy slab capped by a roof left of the A55 Hole Arête slab. 6 bolts lead the way to a lower-off above the roof.
“Climb the thin and entertaining slab to the 5th bolt where it is possible to gain the roof either directly with a hard rock over and small crimp or (slightly easier) by climbing up and right before traversing back left along the lip of the roof to gain the final bolt. At sunset the rock magically changes colour from grey to bright orange just like Ayres Rock /Uluru.”
Looking up the slab prior to the ascent
“It was amazing to see the grey slab turn to a glowing orange as we were on the first ascent that evening, the route itself is yet another thin and technical slab and is very slate like until you reach the roof. As always the grade is a bit of a guesstimate with the direct finish straight up the slab past the fifth bolt to the roof possibly deserving F7a+.”
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